Stone is a sturdy building material. Bricklaying a brick wall is a job with extensive preparation, a secure method and where experience is required. You have to get a certain feeling for bricklaying.MM helps you to find the right feeling and teaches you to build in this step-by-step plan.
Build a stone wall only on a solid foundation.
The ‘waal format’ is the most common brick size (approx. 21x10x5cm). For exterior walls, use a soft brick . Make the bottom layers (‘frame’) of the hard type (flood defense). White sand-lime bricks are very suitable for interior walls .
For a half-brick wall, calculate approximately 78 bricks per m2 (Waal format). This is double that for stone walls.
Sprinkle the stones with water the day before. Leave this until the stones have the right moisture. If the stones are too dry, the grout will adhere poorly, if it is too wet it will run out between the stones.
Test the humidity: press 2 stones together with some grout. Peel them off again after a few minutes. If grout remains on both stones, they have the correct moisture.
Fix the masonry profiles to the wall
Draw a vertical line where a new wall is to be placed using a long spirit level. At the top and bottom and at 1cm next to the line with steel nails, attach 2 short cross bars to the existing wall.
Place the profile against the battens and align it with the vertical level line. Attach the profile to the cross bars with a few screw plugs. (Thanks to the cross bars, you can still use the masonry rope around the profile.)
Set a free-standing profile
Join a plywood sheet under a profile and also temporarily fix it in the concrete floor with concrete nails.
Place each freestanding profile beam on a plywood plate, with 2 braces on the outside. Fix the profile by screwing the braces to picket posts in the ground. Check carefully whether the profiles are perpendicular using a spirit level .
Install the door frame
Set the door frame perpendicular in place using braces and picket posts. Attach it to the inside of the frame. Place a ruler between the frame to prevent impressions.
Mark 0 line
Draw a 0-line on 1 profile, at approximately 1m height. Transfer this line to all other profiles, using a long slat and a spirit level.
Before laying out a large right angle, make a right angle of 3 battens. For more information, see Measuring angles .
Determine layer size
The thickness of 1 layer = stone thickness + 1cm (joint thickness). First determine the average stone thickness (thickness of 10 stones x 1/10). Draw the layers on a bar and then transfer them to the profile bars (from the 0 line).
Make head bar
Place a layer of bricks between the profiles, 1 cm apart (joint). Copy this pattern onto a long crossbar. You can use this slat during bricklaying to check whether the upright butt joints come together nicely.
- Create grout
Prepare the masonry mortar according to the packaging. Always create an amount that you can process within 2 hours.
Mix smaller amounts of mortar in a mortar tub . Mix larger amounts in a pit in the ground, lined with construction film . Of course you can also rent a concrete mixer . Cement contains a light concentration of hydrochloric acid. Therefore, put on sturdy rubber work gloves .
Tension masonry rope
Stretch a masonry rope between the profiles at the level of the stripe, which indicates the top of the next stone layer
- Apply grout
Apply the grout with a trowel . Work the grout towards the previous stone and push some grout against the head.
Practice by placing some stones on a row of turned pavement tiles. This way you will notice how much grout you have to apply and with which movement you put the stone in place.
Hold the stone slightly at an angle with the convex side down. Push it against the previous stone in one movement. Beat it straight with the back of the trowel.
Set stone straight
If necessary, place the stone right on the previous layer by tapping the tip of the trowel. Do not move it horizontally with your hand!
Cut stone to size
Cut a stone to size by scratching it on the side. Place the saber on the scratch and give it a short tap with the folding hammer .
Get rid of grout
Immediately scrape away bulging grout using a trowel. At the end of the day, scrape out the joints by 1cm and smooth them using a joint nail .
Always mark the position of the next layer of bricks, using the head slat, stopping half a brick. Regularly check that all butt joints are neatly above each other.
Check the wall
Regularly check that the masonry wall is completely perpendicular and level.
Install frame anchors
Install 2 frame anchors along the way. These fall into the ribbon joint.
Scratch the joints 1cm deep the same day and smooth them with a joint nail . After 2 weeks you can add the wall.
End with falling tooth
Can’t you finish the wall in 1 day? Then finish the wall with a ‘falling tooth’ instead of a ‘standing tooth’. With a standing tooth it is more difficult to get stones again later. On the image you see a standing tooth on the right and a falling tooth on the left.
Lay the roll layer
Finish a garden wall with a roll of transverse stones. That is nicer and offers more protection against rain.
In warm weather, mist the wall with the garden hose. Note: no water should seep down the wall. In case of rain, cover the wall with foil so that the grout does not wash out.
- Prepare joint mortar
After approximately 2 weeks, the mortar has hardened enough to be able to be added. Prepare joint mortar with water until it is ‘moist’. If so, you can knead a ball of it. Spoon grout into a joint board .
- Add butt joints
First add the butt joints.
- Add ribbon joints
Then add the ribbon joints.
- Brush the wall
Brush the wall with a soft brush.
- Add finishing
The finish of the joint determines the atmosphere.